Let’s say you have a shirt that you don’t like and you want to add something to it. Maybe you like a shirt and its not tznius. Here’s how you can fix it. You can add a flounce, a panel, and a waistband. You will have a new tznius shirt.
(This one is easier with a sewing machine, but can be done by hand. Also, I used a knit which works really well, If you use a fabric that ravels, you will want to do a second seam that is 1/4 inch or use a serger.)
You will need one yard of a fabric you like with the original shirt, the original shirt, and thread to match the fabric. You will also need several sheets of unlined paper, a ruler, a measuring tape and a pencil.
First, you will need to make your pattern. Measure the waistline, the arms and the neckline.
The panel: To make the panel, you will need the following measurements. The width of neckline at the place you want divide that by two and then add 5/8 inch, the width at the bottom of the neckline divide that by two and then add 5/8 inch. The distance between the where you want the neckline and where the neckline currently is plus 5/8 inch times two. On the blank paper, draw a straight line the length of the neckline measurement. Make a dot at the center. At the top and the bottom, make a line the width of half the current neckline plus 5/8 inch. (It should be at a right angle.) In the center, at the dot make a line half the width of the neckline and the place you want it plus 5/8 inch. Now connect the end of each short line with the end of each long line. At the long line write “on fold”.
The Flounce: You will need the width of the sleeve divided by two plus 5/8 inch. Now draw a line about 8 inches (If this is too long, you can shorten it later). At the top of the line draw a line half the width of the sleeve plus 5/8 inch. At the bottom of the line draw a line about three inches longer than the top line. (These should form a right angle 8 inch line). Now draw a line that connects the end of the short line and long line.
The Waistband: You will need the width of the bottom of the shirt plus. Now make a rectangle that is 8 inches high and the width of the bottom of the shirt plus 1 1/2 inch wide. when you cut this, not on the fold, there will be two waistbands.
Next you will pre-wash your fabric in hot water.
Third you should fold the fabric with the selvages together. Pin pattern pieces to the fabric. Be sure that they are pinned on grain and that the lines Be sure to line up the lines labeled as on fold with the fold. Cut pieces, re-pin flounce and cut it again.
Now, un-pin the panel and un-fold it. Refold it so that the shorter edges are together. Now pin to your shirt so that the folded edge is where you want the neckline to be. (Sew it so that the panel is inside the shirt.) Try to follow the stitches of the original neck hem for the best result
Next unpin the flounce, fold it so that the two angled edges are right sides together, pin and sew a 5/8 seam by hand or machine. Repeat on other flounce.
Line up seams with the seam of the the sleeve, pin so that the the right sides are together (This may take a few minutes on the first sleeve especially) and so that the side of the flounce that is the width of the sleeve is lined up with the bottom of the current sleeve. Sew in using a 5/8 inch seam. Repeat on other sleeve.
Pin right sides together and sew the short sides of the waist bands together using a 5/8 inch seam Then fold it in half, wrong sides together. This will give you a long, narrow waistband. Now pin such that the folded edge of the waistband is above the “raw” edges and the raw edges are lined up with the edge of the hem. Make sure the side seams of the waistband are lined up with the side seams of the shirt. Sew in using a 5/8 inch seam.
Trim hanging threads, wear and enjoy your new shirt.